Topo : Civetta

Via ferrata Alleghesi

Overview

This via ferrata follows the line of the eastern pillar of Punta Civetta (2920 m). This was a climbing route in grade UIAA IV. First cables were installed to fix it as descent from the difficult routes in NW face. In 1967 the via ferrata was opened
It offers the best opportunity for normal climbers to climb this big Dolomites mountain

Approach

Starting point is Palafavera (also campground) (1507 m) at the road between Forcella Staulanza pass and the Zoldo valley.

A small little road with scree leads to the pasture Casera di Pioda (1816 m), where there is a parking. So I did in 1999. I've read that driving up there isn't allowed any more. We are in Italy - sometimes everybody does it though without problemes and it is tolerated, sometimes you get punished if you ignore the interdiction.

If driving is not possible you either have to walk (3,5 km, 300 m ascent, 1,5 h) or you can use the chairlift (runs from 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m.) from Palafavera to Dol di Dot (1917 m) from where a short descent leads to Casera di Pioda.

If the road cannot be used for an early start from private car, a daytrip is only possible if you are extremely fit.

From Casera di Pioda an old military trail leads to Rifugio Coldai (2135 m). Staying the night there is advisable for an early start.

From the hut "Sentiero Tivan" trail traverses along east side of the Civetta main ridge to a little pass right of the huge block "Schinal die Bec" (2420 m). From there turn right and climb some easy rocks to the starting point of the via ferrata (ca. 2350 m)

Route Description

The route follows the eastern pillar of Punta Civetta (2920 m). first over a upright step that you cope with help of iron tacks and a ladder. Then gullies, narrow chimneys, easy rocks and ledges vary, interrupted by uprights steps. The steep sections are all well fixed with cables etc., some easier sections require free scrambling of grade UIAA II. the higher you get the sections are less steep. Before Punta Civetta is reached, ledges lead to the main ridge left if it (about 2900 m). From here you have a fine view down to Alleghe and it's lake. The last section passes Punta Tissi (2992 m) on it's left side and reaches the summit via less steep rocks with smaller steps.

Descent

A trail in the scree is well visible and leads along the eastern, gentle, ridge down to Rifugio Torrani on an even plateau.

Further down leads the "Tivan Route", that is the normal route.
First you go down over rocky steps, covered with rubblestones, avoiding upright sections with some zig-zags.
- Please follow the red spots precisely and avoid rockfall! -
Then a fixed rope helps down a chimney. Rocks remain steep and slippery until you reach the huge big slope of rubblestones that leads down to "Sentiero Tivan" hiking trail. Follow this trail with too much ups and downs back to Coldai hut and perhaps down to the valley.

Topo : Marmolada

Avec de bonnes conditions atmosphériques : rocher sec, la via ferrata ne présente pas de difficultés spéciales, mais en mauvaises conditions atmosphériques, (en été après une pluie), on peut s’attendre à trouver la roche glacée.

Du lac de Fedaia, Pian du Fiacconi (2626 m), Le temps de montée et descente est estimé en environ 6.30 heures (boucle) avec une dénivellation totale de 2140m

Du refuge Pian de Fiacconi on descend pour la zone rocheuse en suivant la trace marquée vers l'ouest. Traversez-les la zone polie par le glacier. La signalisation nous amène aux pieds de la crête raide qui nous sépare de la glace. Il faut la traverser sur le versant ouest puis les traces remontent vers la moraine.

Il faut suivre les cordes fixes et monter vers Piccolo Vernel sur la droite du couloir séparateur. Passée une petite fourche, on descend sur le versant sud pour atteindre la Fourche de Marmolada.