Topo : Piz Bernina

Piz Bernina (4049m) is the highest peak in south Rhetic Alps. That's the last alpine 4000 m peak in east direction. Bernina massif is about 20 km long (east-west) and 10 Km large (north-south).

To east-west ridge of the massif belong lots of the highest peaks (piz) of Bernina Massif : Piz Cambrena (3604m - the only one on this ridge not on the Italien border), Piz Palü (3905m), Bellavista (3888m), Piz Zupò (3996m), Piz Argient (3945m), Piz Bernina itself, Piz Scerscen (3941m), Piz Roseg (3937m), Dschimels (3508m), Piz Glüschaint (3594m).

To north-south ridge of the massif belong Piz Tschierva (3546m), Piz Morteratsch (3751m) and Piz Bernina (4049m).This ridge separates 2 long glacier: Vadret Morteratsch and Vadret Roseg.



Bernina Massif is :

·  west-north borded by Inn Valley (1700-1800m including St Moritz town),

·  north-east borded by Flaz valley (1700-2200m including Pontresina village),

·  east borded by Poschiavino valley (1000-2000m including Poschiavo town),

·  south borded by Val Mallenco (300-2000m in Italy until Sondrio town. Sondrio (300m) is only 25Km far from Piz Bernina !).

Websites :

http://www.pontresina.com/

http://www.sac-bernina.ch/htmls_englisch/huetten_tschierva.htm  

Tel : +41 (0)81 842 63 91                                 

Mobile : +41 (0) 79 307 57 87

To the Tschiervahütte (for west routes) :

From Roseg-Inn, you cross the river via a bridge and go along the river till the way goes up over the hangs. You follow the way all the time and reach in 2h the Tschiervahütte.

Bernina Climbing :

The most famouse route to the summit is the " Bianco grat ".

A splendid snow ridge of 45°-50°. Difficulty AD with rockclimbing III Starting point Pontresina (1800m) near St. Moritz. Railroad. Nice walk through beautiful forest to Tchierva hut (2480 m). Icy and tricky climb to Prievlus pass (3430). Here starts the famous Biancograt. First stay left (east) and go around the rocks. Then you start the snow and ice-clad Biancograt. It is easier than it looks. On Pizzo Bianco (3995 m) you take of the crampons off and climb for another hour on solid rock to the Bernina summit.

If you do not want to go down the same way (because of the tricky Prievlus pass) then take the normal route down the Spallagrat, down the Morteratsch glacier (long tight rope, keep on track!) to the Boval hut and down to Morteratsch (railroad).

Refuge Tschierva et massif de la Bernina vus depuis le val Roseg. L’arête du Biancograt est bien visible sous cet angle.